Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Project Run & Play, week one. - 34 Pattern Pieces Dress!

Today I am presenting my first contribution to the fabulous competition Project Run & Play.
The site was kind of my entry to discovering all these amazing sewing blogs I now so proudly consider myself a part of, so this is quite a special day to me. 
Just to be invited to participate is really a big honor for me.

 If you have followed the competition the last seasons you would know that there is a lot to live up to. People have made some absolutely unbelievable amazing things and I have certainly felt the pressure the last couple of weeks - I am not going to lie. And it kind of feels nice (and nerve racking) to finally be able to present what I have been working so very very hard on.

The theme this first week is a remix of the free popover sundress pattern from Oliver + s.

May I present to you my 34 pattern pieces remixed dress and not-that-many-pattern-pieces back buttoned shirt.

I sort of kept the top half of the Oliver + s popover sundress but made it fairly tight fitting. I made a deep cut out in the back to give room for a beautiful buttoned back on the shirt I also made. I sort of kept the original feature with the tie bands but made it a bit more sophisticated by adding a lining to the top half and closing my armhole seam with the outer fabric and the lining and putting the tie bands in between the outer layer and lining. I also cut the dress of at midriff and made the skirt very full. I both extended the skirt so it would be sewed on with gatherings but I also cut up and spread out the pattern so the hem is even wider than the waist (also before gathering - makes sense?)

And THEN I cut the pattern to pieces...literally!

The short version of the pattern is taking two colors (in this case my favorite combination navy and baby pink - yeah, I know...I had some fun with editing and the colors are a bit funky in the above photos...but I liked it so I kept it.)
 Start with a wide stripe of navy and narrow stripe of baby pink. And then you make the navy a bit more narrow and the baby pink a bit more wide and this continues until they have totally swapped width at the hem of the dress.
And to make it more fun I made a biased cut down front and back and started with the opposite colors on the other side. 
BUT I also shifted the left and right side slightly to make the contrast even bigger. Left narrow stripe meets wide right stripe. 
Got it! (Okay, I think the illustration above makes it hard not to, ha!)
By the way the numbers are centimeter.

And just in case you wondered what it looked like when I cut out my pattern here are some horrible but descriptive photos. They are almost all there. 

And more photos to show of the details this dress have. I am actually completely in love with the details.

You know I am not a ruffle person but this mini ruffle that I added to the front neck line and back cut out of the dress is so....mini, that I just love it. And a stripy ruffle...hello!

It is made from smaller pieces of the two cotton voiles sewn together interchangeably to a long strip, folded and then gathered. Yup, pretty simple but big effect.

I also made stripy tie bands by sewing the same length of strips I used for the ruffles together. Long in the front and shorter in the back because I knew I would tie them in the back....The back one is still too long but you know...I tried, ha.

And the tie band for the navy side of the dress starts with navy and the pink side with pink. 

The dress has no side seams - they were kind of not necessary - except left top side where I had lots of fun getting 5 seams (you can see the 4 of them on the photo above) to match on the invisible zipper I inserted. Phew! I am not sure if it is a good or a bad thing to be extremely stubborn in a situation like this?! Man, that took a lot of tries to get right.

I also made a shirt with a buttoned back because that low cut back is of course not child appropriate.
I started out with a pattern for a loose shirt with front buttons and raglan sleeves for woven fabrics from a Japanese sewing book. Which was kind of crazy because it needed more adjustment than drafting one from scratch but you know, ahem! After quite a bit of pattern adjustment I got my narrow shirt with raglan sleeves and back placket with buttons in the end. It obviously had to be narrow so it did not add any bulk under the also fairly tight fitting dress.
I wanted raglan sleeves so the shoulders was 'clean' looking for the tie bands. No sleeve seam where the sleeve is normally sewed on to the bodice/armhole.

The neck is finished with a wide homemade bias tape. The sleeve has a small pleat to give it shape - it makes it bend down a bit and follow the round shoulder - and it is finished with a bias tape inside.

And did you notice the buttons? They have stripes on the outside edge too! Ohhh!
Thank you Lots of Buttons!

I know...this is a monster post....but it somehow matches the monster (fun) work this outfit has been for me so please forgive me!

My 5 year old was not in the mood for this photo shoot and she did not really care for Mommy's babblings about deadlines but we did get some happy shots when little sister joined the party. Funny enough she is wearing the muslin I made so I could check the basic fit before starting chopping up the pattern - you don't wan't to do corrections on 34 pattern pieces, right! 
When I am done with my muslins I give them to my kids' dress up collection and she LOVES this dress....and it is sooo cute on her even though it have a hole in the side where the zipper was going in and all seams are raw, ha...only 3 year olds can pull that look off! 
It is obviously too big for her but that is kind of what makes it cute. It is loose and have lots of twirl ability and I have to make her a non-graphic version for sure.

Okay, ooookay I am pretty sure I now have told you everything, and much more, than you needed to know about this outfit.
Now head back to Project Run & Play, check out the other, no doubt, amazing contributions and vote for your favorite.

Thank you!

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