Monday, February 22, 2016

Burda Style Oversized Coatigan.

I FINALLY got around to blog about the first of many garments I made myself in the last 2-3 months. My sewing room is packed and I seriously need it out of there and into my closet so I can use it. In other words, I'm a highly motivated blogger, ha.

During Black Friday I bought my first Burda Style pattern. Okay okay, patternS...I bought 6 and so far I have used two of of them even two times. It's actually the coatigan you are looking at. I have also made it in a French terry only but that will be for a future post.

I'm calling this version a coatigan because, well that is how I treated it, fabric-choice-wise and sewing-technique-wise. More about that later.
The Burda Style name is: Open Shawl Collar Jacket 11/2015 #103A.

The fabric for the front and collar is this fabulous and fun Wool-Polyester Boucle from Mood Fabrics. And the back and sleeve (which is one huge and fun pattern piece) is made with black French terry from Peek-a-Boo pattern and fabric shop.
And now I think you understand my coatigan definition, right. Coat at the front and cardigan at the back and sleeves. 

And it is oh so comfortable to wear. This version I have saved for photos but my cardigan version (French Terry only) I have already worn countless times. I love it SO much.

I think the pattern is generous in sizing. I made a size 36 - which is the smallest size available - and it fits me great. My upper body measurements might belong to size 36 but because of my height (178 cm / 5'10") I usually need a size 38. But not for this one.

I seriously had so much fun sewing this thing. If you follow me on social media you have seen sneak peeks along the way and I have been raving about the super cool shoulder and front armscye seam that is pierced with the combined back and sleeve seam (see photo below). It was one of those patterns I didn't have the full sewing overview over before I started and I just loved this challenge. It's not because the sewing is hard. One seam almost automatically leads to the next, so don't be scared to try this one. There was a lot of pivoting which is one of my favorite things to do. Wow, what a weird thing to say, ha. Oh well, I'm sure you are all used it it by now!

When I started blogging I usually made my own patterns and then I slowly started using pdf patterns because that is after all faster. I never tried big companies like Burda because I constantly heard that the patterns were not very good. Recently I realized that I had misunderstood. They are not bad patterns. They are just not suited for beginner sewers. The instructions for this one is 4 pages, well, actually only two pages are sewing instructions and they are written ONLY. So good luck if you are a visual learner and a beginner. And I'm not saying this as a critique at all. I'm just saying this for information. Personally I don't need instructions and I prefer to choose my own techniques anyway, so I'm thrilled with the new massive database of available patterns to my disposal.
I see many more Burda patterns in my future, that is for sure.

Can you see how there are no back armscye seam?! Isn't that so fun...yeah yeah, in a super geeky way!

I used my Janome cover stitch to finish the CB seam and hem the back bodice. That's the cardigan sewing techniques I mentioned earlier.

I didn't have the guts to make a buttonhole (but I wanted the option to close it) so I used the biggest size covered button I had for show and then used a big metal sew-on snap for actual closure. That works like a charm. (See the snap three photos down).

I finished the edge of the front facing with bias tape and fastened the facing to the front bodice with hand sewn slip stitches. (Thanks Olga for helping me figure out the English word!)

I also made classic in seam pockets in the side seam - which is included in the pattern but I skipped them for my cardigan version.
I almost regretted putting in the pockets because they pulled my side seams down and ruined the cocoon shape of the bodice. So I also fastened my otherwise loose pocket bags to the front bodice with an invisible hand sewn slip stitch and all was well again. 
And now that the techical difficulties are behind me, I'm of course thrilled that this one has pockets. Especially since I'm planning on using it as an outdoor jacket.

I added fusible interlining to the facing part of the shawl collar. Again I didn't do that in my pure French Terry cardigan version (I really need to blog that one too, don't I!) because I wanted that one to be soft and unstructured. But this coatigan with wool I certainly wanted a structured collar and front hem.

By the way I did make my sleeves long enough...I didn't even had to add length to my monkey arms, whaaaat! I folded them up simply because I like the look of it and I like my glitter sweater peeking out.

That's IT for my rambling for today. My only post in February from me on my blog. BUT on February 29th (yes, there is one of those this year) I'm posting my Sew Japan post on Petit a Petit AND on the same day I will have a mystery guest poster here on my blog.
How exciting! 

Get your own Burda Style pattern HERE.

Thank you!

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