Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Stylo 4 - Sun Kissed

I have been counting down to this day. 
Today is the release of the amazing and inspirational online sewing for kids magazine STYLO. It is the 4th release and I could not be any prouder so say that I am amongst the group of AH-mazing ladies that has been invited to make a spread this time. That was a question I did not hesitate for a second to say yes to when I was asked by the two wonderful editor-in-chiefs Celina and Jessica.

I made my girls two outfits each and these two dresses above are what I consider my showpieces. Understood in the way that these dresses are more meant as inspiration than as actually everyday kids clothes. Especially the dress for my big girl is more 'show' than 'let's go and play at the park' reality. That is why doing STYLO is so fun because it has room for it all.

They are both made from The Sunki Dress by Figgy's Patterns.

The one above is from the original pattern but with pieced curved side pieces.

The incredible flower printed fabric (which was my initial inspiration for this whole spread) is by Anna Maria Horner from the collection Honor Roll. This print is called Overachiever and comes in 3 color ways and I absolutely LOVE this one. Just plain yum. I bought mine HERE.

And as soon as I decided to use this fabric I knew I also wanted to make a non-printed dress for my other daughter but in the same color ways. And the first thing that popped up in my head was to use Cotton Couture from Michael Miller Fabrics.
It comes in a plethora of amazing colors and I had a very hard time choosing - which is a good problem to have in that situation!

And here is my heavily remixed Sunki Dress. My inspiration started at this beautiful Pinterest STYLO inspiration board made by Celina that was presented to us when we got invited. There was a dress with a big circle that caught my attention and The Sunki Dress was the logical pattern to use as a starting point. Especially since I have always loved that dress but at that point had never made it. 

So I extended the half circle side pieces to full circles. Removed the sleeves and used the rounded shoulder overlaps to create separate oval shoulder pieces. And then I added those lower side pieces to add some more volume in the lower part. The hem is'wavy' and high-low. I made a big circle 'keyhole' opening in the back which I closed with an oversized bow made of pink and beige striped grosgrain ribbon.

The dress is solely made from Cotton Couture by Michael Miller.

The finished dresses gave some heavy 60s and 70s vibes and the hat and glasses were no-brainer-accessories for the photo shoot.

In my other two outfits I wanted to create a contrast to the two dresses and go big on the wearability but still cool of course, ha. And still in the same colors.

I really want this outfit for myself - although I wouldn't look quite as cute.
The top is a pattern U from the Japanese sewing book Happy Homemade, vol. 5.

And the shorts....THE SHORTS..... those I really want for myself. They are the brand-new-releasing-any-day-now Morocco Pants (and shorts) by Petit a Petit Patterns. They are shock full of lovely details such as back welt pockets, side pockets, belt loops, zip fly and the ultra cool color block option you can see above. I choose to make part of my front in the same fabric as the back. But you can also make the side stripe stand out which will create a tuxedo pants effect - I knoooow, so good!
If you scroll down to wednesday on Celina's Sewing for Kindergarten post you can see her version. I love them SO much!

They are not a fast project BUT they are something even better - they are a truly satisfying project and you might learn a new trick or two.
All three fabrics used for these shorts are from Michael Levine Fabrics. Burgundy denim, baby pink stretch denim and stripy denim.

For my youngest daughter I made my own remixed sweatshirt version of The Mulberry Tunic from Kid Approved Patterns. HERE is a link to the post about this remix.

The lovely and on the heavy side of medium weight stripy cotton sweatshirt fleece is from Girl Charlee. The black and cream is since sold out but HERE is a link to the same fabric in heather grey and black stripe.

The skirt is a slightly remixed version of pattern N from the Japanese sewing book Girl Clothing by Akiko Mano.
I added the separate back ruffle after seeing THIS dress.

The fabric is more Cotton and Steel double gauze goodness from Michael Levine.
Cream double gauze from Imagine Gnats Shop just for the back ruffle.

And here you see my two happy bunnies posing and turning towards the camera but I think you can see on W's smile that something was up....

....and the whispering started.

I honestly have no idea what happened but oh boy these photos makes me so happy. 
I was stressed out of my mind during the photo shoot to get the photos right and at the same time try to take advantage of the sinking sun. But I'm glad that they at least had some fun, haha.

Oh, you can see the back welt pockets here. Woohoo.


I want to give a big thanks to the fabric shops below for generously sponsoring part of the fabric for this spread. 

New customers get 10% off their first order.

Get 10% off your entire purchase when using the code 'STYLO4'

And thank you Figgy's Patterns for The Sunki Dress pattern, Kid Approved Patterns for the Mulberry Tunic pattern and Petit a Petit Patterns for the Morocco Pants pattern.

Now PLEASE go check out the full magazine HERE. The other editors have shared sneak peeks of their work and I PROMISE you that you do not want to miss it. They are all SO very talented and I am very honored to be part of this High Fructose issue.

Thank you!!

Monday, May 11, 2015

Rowan Tee with gatherings plus Seraphic Pants.

My love affair with my new CoverPro from Janome continues and my favorite knit patterns are getting extra attention from me these days.

This is The Rowan Tee (slightly altered) from Titchy Threads and The Seraphic Pants from Figgy's Patterns (also slightly altered).

I recently bought this 100% rayon knit from Fabric.com and it was quite light weight. Which means excellent drape but also not super suitable for a slim style t-shirt since they are usually a bit see-through if it gets too close to the body. So I took my Rowan Tee pattern because I love it and I know that the fit is right AND then I added some center front gatherings. 
That is simply done by moving the pattern piece out from the fold line on the fabric before cutting. I moved it 10 cm / 4" away. Which meant that I added a total of 20 cm / 8" extra fabric to the front piece. I added two rows of long gathering/basting stitches to the neckline and gathered a 30 cm / 12" center front piece back to 10 cm (5 cm on each side of center front (CF)) so the neckline stays the same size as the original pattern.
I'm sorry if I'm making it sound complicated. It really isn't, promise!

Then I overlocked my neck rib on and used my cover stitch to sew a single stretchy chain stitch to hold down the seam.
Stitching the seam down afterwards it not at all necessary but it helps the overall look of the garment after wash. I'm sure you have noticed how your seams looses that lovely pressed looked it had when you just finished sewing it after the first wash. And sure you can press/iron it again but seriously to me life it too short for ironing t-shirts (and most other things too, ahem) on a general basis.

I kept the back and short sleeves as it is from the original pattern but I overlocked it together with 0.7 cm SA instead of using the pattern's 1 cm / 3/8" which overall gave a tiny bit looser look.
I'm super happy with the result and I can't believe how much different this tiny change with the gatherings made.
HERE is a link to a post where I made the original pattern by the book for comparison.

The Seraphic pants is a new favorite. I have already blogged about the original version HERE and in that post I talked about putting elastic at the bottom hems for my next pair and oh, how I love that. I also made them more cropped and I think it gives such a funky yet ultra relaxed look. I seriously wish I could rock pants like that, ugh.

The fabric is the same type in navy blue and royal blue. Both are Laguna cotton jersey from Robert Kaufman bought at Imagine Gnats Shop. I seriously LOVE this knit. Firm and medium weight and yet soft and stretchy at the same time. LOVE!
The waistband rib is this heather sky blue rib from Girl Charlee. The rib is quite loose and very stretchy and I have an elastic inside the waistband too.

If I didn't already love my cover stitch machine I really started doing it after making these elastic hems.
I basted the elastic on the very bottom of the pant hem, folded the elastic up including fabric and then cover stitched from the right side of the fabric through the elastic (which is as wide as the top of the cover stitch that you can see above) while stretching out the elastic to fit the fabric. It worked sooooo well and no annoying twisting elastics in casings anymore, seriously yay!
It's funny because the machine can at times have problems sewing over many layers of fabric (e.g. at a seam like where the navy and royal blue meet above) but when it sews through a thick elastic there has been NO problems. I guess it is in it's element there.

That's all from me for now.
Thank you!

Monday, May 4, 2015

The Celestial Tee + Mini Hudson Pants.

This outfit is a few weeks old and has already gotten lots of wearing time.

It was made that weekend where I sort of pretended I had a deadline and sewed almost for an entire weekend while hubby hung out with the kids. Glorious!
(Feel free to borrow the idea, ha)

The t-shirt is the Celestial Tee from Figgy's Patterns and the pants are a below-knee length version of the Mini Hudson Pants from True Bias.

All the fabrics are from Girl Charlee. The orange and pink is this amazing thin stretchy  French Terry and the heathered blue is a rib.

It's my first time sewing the Celestial Tee and it worked like a charm. It's a super simple pattern with a front and back piece, three pleats at the front neckline, a neck rib and a high-low hem. That's it and the result is a super wearable t-shirt with a few details that makes it a bit more interesting than the average t-shirt. Many more to come for sure! 
I want to lengthen it too to a cool t-shirt dress.

This outfit was part of my fun with my new Janome coverstitch and you can see all three types of stitches that the machine can do in this photo above.

The neckband has the triple decorative stitch.
The sleeves and bottom is hemmed with a traditional two stitch coverstitch. And the rib on the pockets is stitched with the 1 thread chain stitch.
All three types are stretchable stitches.

Thank you!

Monday, April 27, 2015

The Stellar Tunic/Dress by Figgy's Patterns.

I'm continuing sewing my way through Figgy's Patterns' Heavenly Bundled Collection and today I'm showing you The Stellar Tunic/Dress.

And no, I'm not an affiliate or paid in any way by Figgy's - just a fan who is a liiiiiittle behind and is now trying to catch up by sewing it all at once, ha.

The Stellar Tunic is a good example of great design. 
It's a simple style and yet it looks 'different' and sophisticated.
The bodice is for knit fabric and the sleeves are for woven.

This version above is made with this thin baby pink/nude French Terry from Girl Charlee for the bodice (I'm sorry it is already sold out...how do I know? Because I tried to buy more, argh) and the sleeves are made with fabric from the Cookie Book collection by Kimberly Kight from Cotton & Steel.
I love this fabric combination SO much. I had originally cut the woven sleeves together with the navy knit bodice that I'm showing in the next combination but didn't sew it because I was just not sure that I totally loved it. Then I bought the French terry and it all made sense and I cut some new sleeves for the navy knit. And that's when things started to get out of control and I ended up making 4 Stellar Tunics total. I'm showing 3 today. E was not in the photographing mood to show her's off.

I used my new Janome CoverPro to stitch the knit to the sleeve pieces plus for the neck rib and hemming. Man, that thing is nifty.

Here is the navy knit version with the stripy woven poplin.
This version I have made the sleeve like the original pattern where front and back is cut into 4 equal sizes. This gives you the chance to play with patchwork, color block and like here stripes.
I kind of wish the pattern came with both a solid and patchwork option but hey, at least it is easy to tape the pieces together (overlap the SA) and make solid sleeves (like the first version in this post).

I also kind of wish there was no fluffy cat in this photo but again....hey, if that is what makes the 7 year old want to model for me then okay okay, you can hold kitty.

The navy knit fabric is the Laguna Cotton Jersey from Robert Kaufman bought at Imagine Gnats Shop. It's a really great quality knit.

I think the stripe poplin is from Fabric.com but I'm not sure. Sorry!

The red and white knit rib is one of the few things I brought with me from Denmark. From a tiny shop smack in the center of Copenhagen called Skipper Stoffer. It's insanely expensive and an insanely nice quality so at least there is some sort of balance there, ha.

The pattern is not mentioning to line the sleeves like I did here but you totally can. Simply cut 4 front and 4 back sleeve pieces instead of 2 and 2. Close up the inner and outer sleeve (instead of hemming) before you sew the neck rib, and now you can make a little contrast fold up like I did here.
Then you don't have to finish all those seams either. Score!

This was the first Stellar Tunic I made and the reason I lined this one was because I was worried she would find the linen slightly scratchy.

The beautiful linen is from Miss Matatabi, the lining is French blue cotton voile (from ??) and then again Laguna Jersey this time in heather grey.

This time I overlocked my rib knit on and then I simply used my coverstitch to sew a chainstitch to hold down the seam.

I don't have much to say about the pattern. It's simple, it's great. It does not gives you full sewing lessons but shows enough photos and tell you the order of things.

I made my 7 year old daughter a size 6/7 and I think I added a bit of length but arghhh I can't really remember. Duh.

Okay, that's it!
Get your own Stellar Tunic/Dress pattern HERE.

Thank you!

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

The Seraphic Pants by Figgy's Patterns.

I have sewed another Figgy's pattern. Actually I have sewed two more since I fell in love with the Sunki Dress and ended up buying the Heavenly Bundled Collection that contains 7 Figgy's patterns (which is on sale btw - and no, I'm not an affiliate, just a fan.)
I have made two Stellar Tunics and you will see them as soon as I'm getting around to taking some photos of them - preferably worn by my kids, said kids that would much rather play in the garden now that it is finally spring than standing still and posing for Mommy and her camera. Can't blame them!

And then I have made a pair of Seraphic Pants.
It's a style made for knit fabrics with seams center front and back for fun color block opportunities (you know I never turn those down), a slight dropped crotch together with slight tapered legs creates a great cool vibe and then lovely side pockets.
Overall an insanely comfortable pair of pants that my daughter wore for a full weekend after I finished them - including sleeping in them, ha.

I didn't even mean to make a blog post. We just went to a park that weekend and I brought my camera. While I was sitting at a nearby bench I could see that this might work so I shot like 10 photos of her and 4 of them are in this post. 

Together with a few spring flower photos just as a service for those of you that lives places where spring is just starting now or for those that live places where fall is starting now. You are welcome, ha.

The fabrics are both oh so lovely - AND environmental friendly.
The grey dot is a bamboo knit from Hart's Fabric. I'm giving you a link to all their bamboo knits because really you need to see them all. The drape is peeerfect, it is super soft and it is medium weight so easier to work with (than light weight) but not see-through. I guess the only downside is the price but at least you get value for your money!

The black fabric is something new to me. It is my first time working with fabric made from hemp (and 45% organic cotton) and it is from Organic Cotton Plus. The texture is much different than from the bamboo. More coarse but still soft and drapey. A bit like a linen blend. It's super easy to work with because of the non-slippery texture. And I could see myself using it for tons of things.

I made no changes to the pattern size-wise. This is a size 6/7 on my 7 year old daughter. I think it is the first time I have not had to lengthen a pair of pants for her, woohoo. I originally rolled them up for her because it is already warm outside and it added some extra cool vibes to the pants but the roll-ups did not survive the sandbox. Well, one half roll did as you can see on some of the other photos, ha.

I did make some changes to which sewing techniques I used compared to the ones suggested in the tutorial.

I know many knit patterns are made so everyone can make them - also people who does not have a serger. And that seems like a nice gesture.
But I did not agree with the waistband tutorial. The pattern is giving two alternatives. One will most likely give you quite a lot of troubles because of suggesting to stitch down the knit waistband from the front with a visible stitch (if only it was in the ditch) and the other is leaving a raw seam visible from the outside of the waistband.
So I simply folded the waistband (I did make it a bit smaller since I used rib) and sewed it on with 1 cm seam allowance and then overlocked the raw edge on the inside. This is the most basic and foolproof way to do it I would say.

I also did quite a lot more stitching as you can see but that is totally extras on my account.
Janome America have borrowed me the CoverPro 1000CPX until their new Cover Pro 2000 comes out and I just had to try it out right away. So I played with the overstitch and the chain stitch (at the elastic). SO fun! And I promise I will tell you much more about it at a later time!

And one last thing that I will add under the photo of these random flowers is that I was missing notches since the pattern didn't have any. Especially one VERY important notch that indicates the CF (center front) of the pants. It's kind of hard sewing a zip fly (faux or real) without that. 

BUT the conclusion is clear. My daughter LOVES her Seraphic Pants and I think they look super cool on her. And I will definitely make many more. Maybe try to put elastic at the bottom of the pant legs? Or make them cropped for summer. 

Even my pants-hating youngest daughter requested some but added...."when it is cold again"...which will be in like 6 months. We will see where she stands by then!?

Get your Heavenly Bundled Collection HERE.
or the Seraphic Pants Pattern HERE.

Thank you!

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