Friday, February 24, 2017

Violet Knit Jacket by Style Arc Patterns

A truly enjoyable pattern to sew.



I have said this before (it happens when you have been blogging for almost 5 years, gulp) but I LOVE when patterns are drafted in a way where I can't quite figure it out just by looking at it. I know that can sound a bit arrogant and it is of course not meant that way. I just think it's a fun challenge to having to play around with the pattern pieces and figuring out which notches go together...because in this case you NEED the notches or it's virtually impossible to sew. That is btw probably another reason why I love it, so I can prove that my notch obsession is justifiable, ha.


But don't be scared! As soon as you figure out which seams to sew together (and the notches really DO help you here!!) it isn't hard at all. 

At first you might think you are missing a pattern piece but then you realize that the back shoulder seam is kind of also some of your side seam. The back bodice wraps around your shoulders and become sleeve openings too. SO cool! I become all giddy thinking about it haha.


Since this is my first time blogging about a Style Arc Pattern I just want to give you my quick opinion about them. I have tried two so far (Blaire Shirt and Dress not blogged yet) and they are FANTASTIC! They are clearly made by someone who have learned to make patterns for the industry (e.g. the notches are just an inward line and you just make a little snip in the fabric when you cut out your fabric). Seam allowances are clearly drawn all the way around (just like on Named Patterns) and shirt collars and collar stands only have 0.5 cm SA because you don't want too much bulk. And why spend extra fabric and time cutting the extra fabric off afterwards, when you can just start out with a smaller SA. I could get on and on but I will leave it that. I felt like I came home when I printed and taped together my first pattern from them, ha.
The instructions are sparse but there are a few illustrations for tricky parts. I totally needed one for the pocket on the Blaire Dress but more about that when I blog it.
The patterns are either for a bit more experienced seamstresses (who has been sewing a couple of years) or brave and adventurous beginners (I know there are lots of those out there which is so cool). I'm not trying to scare anyone, just being realistic. There are SO many beginner patterns out there (which is GREAT), that it just makes me happy when I see patterns that are geared towards the next level.


The black version was not my first one though....
......this one was!

Again it is interesting to see the difference fabric can make. In this case not a giant difference but never the less a difference.

The black quilted knit is definitely more bulky and has no drape at all so it makes for a bit more bulky result.


The pattern comes with these tiny pockets which is a great detail but caused me some problems to get nice looking. I should definitely have cut the pocket bags in a thinner material. I skipped them completely in the black version.

Maybe I should also add that this is a size 6, so I would say size wise is must a little bit big compared to RTW. I mean it fits me great and it is perfectly oversized but normally a size 6 wouldn't be on the verge of being too big for me. I just thought I would mention it in case you were trying to decide which size to make.


The fabric, oh this fabric. I didn't realize it at the time but I did a scoop on Fashion Fabrics Club on Amazon. It's a wool knit with a cream colored cotton backing. The quality is SO nice and it cost $7/yard - say what! I carefully ordered 2 yards of this grey and a navy and as soon as I received it and realized how nice it was, the rest was already sold out. Bummer because I wanted more but I will enjoy what I got.


I did one very stupid mistake when I made this cardigan and you can kind of see it in this photo. See how the side sort of pulls up. Totally my fault. Let me tell you about it so you don't make the same mistake.
My skin doesn't like wool directly against it. And here I had a style that goes up against the back neck so I had to find a solution. In other words I needed to cut my front facing (that also becomes the visible lapels plus the inside of the neck) in a non wool fabric. BUT I did not wanted to color block. Generally I'm not crazy with jackets etc where the lapels are a different color, not sure why?

I realized I had the perfect grey cotton fabric (I bet you didn't even noticed that it was a different fabric before you read this). But unfortunately it was a thin sweater knit and I was quite nervous about how it would hold up together with the much more stable double wool knit. So I interfaced it and that was my first mistake (although it might also had been a mistake not too, gah. Some sort of stretchy interfacing would have been the answer but I didn't have that on hand). Second mistake was to make a nice finish on the facing with a bias tape. Because now I had a facing that didn't stretch at all sewn together with an outer layer that did. And since the facing is also sewn into the wide bottom hem band, it pulls up the whole thing...obviously! Ughhhhh, it's always so clear afterwards!

Because the style is generally oversized and a bit 'unstructured' I'm just living with it. Most of the time it's hidden by my arms anyway but you know...it's annoys me. 
We live and we learn! Moving on!


I looove the look from the back though. That center seam in the lower back bodice is obviously not necessary but it somehow does something interesting for the design.


The seam is not so visible in this sweater knit but in this photo you can instead see the fun triangle shape that this cardigan has.

Did you notice how the fabric on my back neck was sort of ruched on the grey one (in the previous photo) but on the black it is just folded like a shawl collar. Somehow I can't fold the grey version, it doesn't lie nicely when I do that but the black one does it totally easy. I have no answers, just observations. Just to be clear I don't think the pattern is drafted to be folded like a shall collar. The pattern illustration does not show that but I saw it done on another blogger (argh, I can't remember who but I think I followed the #violetknitjacket hashtag on Instagram and decided to give it a go. I guess you can try both ways if you make it and see what works the best for whatever fabric you have made it in.


The quilted organic cotton knit is from L'oiseau fabrics in Canada (sorry, most colors are sold out at this point but they have restocked it before so keep an eye on their shop) and the charcoal wool sweater knit is from Mood Fabrics. The sweater knit contains lurex and is rather scratchy so keep that in mind.


A blurry look from the side. No pulling up as I had learned my lesson and cut both the front and the facing (it's really the front pattern piece times two, well times four but you know what I mean. There are no separate facing pattern piece) in the same fabric and no interfacing needed for this fabric.


I really use these two all the time. It's funny, there is something about vests that feels warmer on your shoulders than long sleeved cardigans and jackets. It must be the contrast from the bare arms that tricks me. Also did I just sound 100 years old there, ha!


Eeek, I love this thing. Super cool if I may say so myself.

Get your own Violet Knit Jacket HERE.

Thank you for stopping by!

12 comments:

  1. Very chic and pretty Mie! I have the perfect fabric for it, too. I'm wondering do you think I could make this with 1.5 yards of 54 inch fabric?

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    1. Uh, I'm not sure but I don't think so. Maybe you can use another for the back pieces just like I did with the black one? Can't wait to see you make one!

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  2. Looks so good on you! Love the unusual design, very chic.

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  3. I love both of these! And, thank you for such a detailed review. I bought the Blair pattern on amazon during Black Friday too, and am looking forward to seeing your version made up. Also, I really like interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply online shop. I use their light weight knit interfacing for everything (knits and wovens).

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  4. Love this! So unusual. And I love short sleeved cardigans as wel. So much more practical.

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  5. Oh Mie! I LOVE both versions - especially that grey one (I realize the side seams bother you, but you know that I've always said that your cast-offs are always welcome in my closet, haha just kidding...not really). I'm really excited to try out this pattern. After I try out the million patterns I have in my folder first ;)

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  6. This is such a great style! I'm really fond of this type of vests, adding some extra style as well as coziness is always a big win by my books. Both versions are gorgeous but I'm swooning over the quilted knit one <3 perfection!

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  7. I keep meaning to try one of their patterns and this one looks amazing! Happy to know they pass your test of high quality too! XO

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  8. This is definitely your style ... you have such an eye for interesting construction

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  9. You don't sound 100 years old Mie hahaha There is something seriously cosy about nice warm cardigans. Love these cardis. I am a fan of the grey one maybe a tiny little but more ;) It feels a little more huggable :) Now I sound 100 years old haha

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  10. Looking amazing as always! What a cool pattern and I just love your two versions so much.

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