Monday, February 22, 2016

Burda Style Oversized Coatigan.

I FINALLY got around to blog about the first of many garments I made myself in the last 2-3 months. My sewing room is packed and I seriously need it out of there and into my closet so I can use it. In other words, I'm a highly motivated blogger, ha.


During Black Friday I bought my first Burda Style pattern. Okay okay, patternS...I bought 6 and so far I have used two of them...one of them even two times. It's actually the coatigan you are looking at. I have also made it in a French terry only but that will be for a future post.

I'm calling this version a coatigan because, well that is how I treated it, fabric-choice-wise and sewing-technique-wise. More about that later.
The Burda Style name is: Open Shawl Collar Jacket 11/2015 #103A.



The fabric for the front and collar is this fabulous and fun Wool-Polyester Boucle from Mood Fabrics. And the back and sleeve (which is one huge and fun pattern piece) is made with black French terry from Peek-a-Boo pattern and fabric shop.
And now I think you understand my coatigan definition, right. Coat at the front and cardigan at the back and sleeves. 



And it is oh so comfortable to wear. This version I have saved for photos but my cardigan version (French Terry only) I have already worn countless times. I love it SO much.

I think the pattern is generous in sizing. I made a size 36 - which is the smallest size available - and it fits me great. My upper body measurements might belong to size 36 but because of my height (178 cm / 5'10") I usually need a size 38. But not for this one.


I seriously had so much fun sewing this thing. If you follow me on social media you have seen sneak peeks along the way and I have been raving about the super cool shoulder and front armscye seam that is pierced with the combined back and sleeve seam (see photo below). It was one of those patterns I didn't have the full sewing overview over before I started and I just loved this challenge. It's not because the sewing is hard. One seam almost automatically leads to the next, so don't be scared to try this one. There was a lot of pivoting which is one of my favorite things to do. Wow, what a weird thing to say, ha. Oh well, I'm sure you are all used it it by now!

When I started blogging I usually made my own patterns and then I slowly started using pdf patterns because that is after all faster. I never tried big companies like Burda because I constantly heard that the patterns were not very good. Recently I realized that I had misunderstood. They are not bad patterns. They are just not suited for beginner sewers. The instructions for this one is 4 pages, well, actually only two pages are sewing instructions and they are written ONLY. So good luck if you are a visual learner and a beginner. And I'm not saying this as a critique at all. I'm just saying this for information. Personally I don't need instructions and I prefer to choose my own techniques anyway, so I'm thrilled with the new massive database of available patterns to my disposal.
I see many more Burda patterns in my future, that is for sure.


Can you see how there are no back armscye seam?! Isn't that so fun...yeah yeah, in a super geeky way!

I used my Janome cover stitch to finish the CB seam and hem the back bodice. That's the cardigan sewing techniques I mentioned earlier.


I didn't have the guts to make a buttonhole (but I wanted the option to close it) so I used the biggest size covered button I had for show and then used a big metal sew-on snap for actual closure. That works like a charm. (See the snap three photos down).


I finished the edge of the front facing with bias tape and fastened the facing to the front bodice with hand sewn slip stitches. (Thanks Olga for helping me figure out the English word!)


I also made classic in seam pockets in the side seam - which is included in the pattern but I skipped them for my cardigan version.
I almost regretted putting in the pockets because they pulled my side seams down and ruined the cocoon shape of the bodice. So I also fastened my otherwise loose pocket bags to the front bodice with an invisible hand sewn slip stitch and all was well again. 
And now that the techical difficulties are behind me, I'm of course thrilled that this one has pockets. Especially since I'm planning on using it as an outdoor jacket.


I added fusible interlining to the facing part of the shawl collar. Again I didn't do that in my pure French Terry cardigan version (I really need to blog that one too, don't I!) because I wanted that one to be soft and unstructured. But this coatigan with wool I certainly wanted a structured collar and front hem.


By the way I did make my sleeves long enough...I didn't even had to add length to my monkey arms, whaaaat! I folded them up simply because I like the look of it and I like my glitter sweater peeking out.

That's IT for my rambling for today. My only post in February from me on my blog. BUT on February 29th (yes, there is one of those this year) I'm posting my Sew Japan post on Petit a Petit AND on the same day I will have a mystery guest poster here on my blog.
How exciting! 

Get your own Burda Style pattern HERE.

Thank you!


24 comments:

  1. i seriously love this on you! plus that color looks amazing on you oh and i love your hair :)

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  2. That is seriously a cool coat! And looks so comfy!!! Love it. That blue... Swoon.

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  3. You are rocking this outfit! It looks so comfortable too. Now you have me craving my own coatigan, even though I am sooo ready for some spring and summer!;)

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  4. I admire the way you use different fabrics and mix colours. This is such a fun coatigan! Love it! Pivot like your life depends on it ;)

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  5. I have been waiiiiiiiiiiiting to see this! It's so amazingly perfect! Love the fabrics, the color, everything! I love how you look so happy and comfy-cozy in it, too!

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  6. Genius button solution! I love the coatigan look, but really want it to close...problem solved!

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  7. You are the best, Mie. This coat is so awesome! I'd be wearing it all the time too! You look so pretty in these photos!

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  8. This looks do great. Reminds me of trine the master of coatigans 😊

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    1. Haha - and you won't be surprised to learn that I absolutely looooove this one!!!!

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  9. Du er så heldig at jeg ikke er i nærheden af at kunne klemme mig i hverken str 36 el 38 - ellers var du fluks blevet bedt sende det vidunder der til DK! Wow den er flot, Notch!

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  11. You know I'm all heart eyes for this!! When we meet one day you must wear this haha! I love the look on you, it's super stylish and that fabric is amazing!

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  12. Love the colour! It looks really good on you! And you look so pretty with your hair down! You should wear it like that more often. :)

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  13. It's totally awesome! I would wear that all winter!

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  14. OMG this is absolute perfection! <3 couldn't love the fabric combination more, it's pure genius! And you're GORGEOUS!! (Insert a million heart eyes here!!!)

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  15. Loooooooove! Such a great pattern, it looks like it was made for you. Gorgeous. The colour and fabrics are a perfect match, talk about making a coat super comfy! And all these photos are beautiful- you look amazing. <3

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  16. That coatigan looks SO comfy! I am loving that no back armscye seam. What cool construction! And you are looking beautiful as always Mie ;)

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  17. Mie, I love this coatigan so much! It is perfect!
    That wool blend fabric is gorgeous? And I love the sleeve detail. I guess, I am a sewing geek too...
    I have sewn my first burda women's pattern l as you said in your post, if you can get around the very basic instructions., the fitting is super nice.

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  18. Absolutely LOVE IT! The fabric in the front is amazing and I like lots how you combined both fabrics -such a great idea!-<3. You look stunning!!

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  19. Nice coatigan! I like the wool-boucle fabric, it looks great even for a french jacket.

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  20. Looking at cover photo of the pattern for your coat, I wouldn't have given it a second glance. But looking at your version makes me want to rush off and buy the pattern immediately. Great fabric choice. Love it.

    And if you like pivoting, you might like netball ;-)

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  21. Very nice combination. And amazingly finished! Great attention to detail. Love it.

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  22. I love the button on this coatigan especially.

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  23. Hi I love your version of this! I'm trying to assemble today and really struggling since there are no instructions. I have a question: there is a notch on the top center of the front bodice. There is a "2" marked on the front top right of the bodice. I can't figure out where this peice goes! What do I sew into here? Thank you!!

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